Globalization Of The Qipao
Globalization Of The Qipao
In a snapshot that once took the internet by storm, Keziah Daum beams alongside her date and friends on a gleaming white marble staircase, ready to celebrate prom. While pre-dance photoshoots with a big crew are a dime a dozen, Daum’s choice of attire—a stunning qipao, a traditional Chinese dress—sparked a whirlwind of debate on Twitter. Unlike her friends who donned more conventional gowns, Daum faced a barrage of criticism for what some deemed cultural appropriation, with one user emphatically declaring, “My culture is NOT your goddamn prom dress.” Yet, amidst the uproar, voices of support emerged from journalists and fellow Chinese Americans, rallying to defend her right to wear the dress as a gesture of appreciation. Daum herself stood firm, asserting that her intention was to honor the culture, leaving the contentious issue of cultural appropriation hanging in the air.
This incident is just one chapter in a broader narrative of Western women and brands borrowing from traditional Chinese aesthetics. The qipao and cheongsam have transcended borders, becoming global fashion staples that now grace the racks of Western retailers. This proliferation raises important questions about the authenticity of modern qipaos and the fine line between cultural appreciation and appropriation. The distinction is often murky, especially as these cultural elements continue to evolve.
Recently, fast-fashion giants like Zara, Shein, and Urban Outfitters have jumped on the bandwagon, marketing “jacquard” or “oriental” dresses that echo the traditional qipao. Many in the Asian American community have voiced concerns over cultural appropriation, urging these brands to reconsider their production of such garments. However, opinions are divided; some see no harm in these designs or in non-Asians wearing them. Professor Jenny Lin from the University of Southern California and Vivian Chan, co-founder of East Meets Dress, share their insights on these fashion trends within the larger context of globalization and modernity.
Chan’s initial reaction to a Zara dress was one of disappointment, labeling it “lazy.” While she acknowledged its beauty, she lamented the absence of cultural respect. “These brands could have marketed their pieces in a way that truly honors the culture,” she remarked, noting a lack of acknowledgment of Chinese heritage. In contrast, East Meets Dress takes a different approach, naming their cheongsams after pioneering Asian women, which adds a layer of thoughtfulness to their designs.
Professor Lin, while appreciating the aesthetic of these dresses, highlighted a deeper issue: the ethics of fast fashion. She pointed out that the mass production of garments often exploits vulnerable workers in unsafe conditions, a stark contrast to the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into creating a traditional qipao. In the past, a personal tailor would take precise measurements and invest significant time and care into crafting a dress meant to be cherished for generations. “The relationship with the material is fundamentally different from fast fashion,” she explained, emphasizing the need to learn from traditional practices.
While the lack of cultural acknowledgment and labor exploitation are pressing concerns, both Lin and Chan found no fault with the designs themselves. Fashion, after all, thrives on deconstruction and reinvention. East Meets Dress exemplifies this by blending traditional qipao elements with contemporary styles, creating pieces that resonate with modern sensibilities. Chan envisions a softer, more romantic take on the qipao, inspired by the elegance of white wedding dresses while retaining key features like color and trim.
Yet, as East Meets Dress crafts customizable dresses that merge Western trends with Eastern traditions, the question arises: at what point does a new qipao cease to be recognizable as such? Chan believes there’s room for flexibility. Part of their mission is to educate others about the qipao’s significance, and she has outlined the five essential elements of traditional Chinese dress. Many brides, eager to honor their heritage, seek ways to incorporate cultural elements into their attire, even if it means adapting certain features.
The conversation around cultural appreciation versus appropriation is ongoing, and both Lin and Chan emphasize the importance of respectful dialogue. They argue that simply punishing those who misstep can entrench misunderstandings. Instead, fostering open conversations can lead to greater understanding and appreciation of diverse cultures.
Ultimately, as Lin wisely notes, there is no singular definition of what it means to be authentically Chinese. The qipao, like Chinese fashion as a whole, continues to evolve, shaped by new interpretations and global interactions. As we navigate this complex landscape, the key lies in respect, education, and a willingness to engage with one another’s cultures in meaningful ways.